“Don’t you just love those long afternoons in New Orleans when an hour isn’t just an hour–but a little piece of eternity dropped into your hands–and who knows what to do with it?”
— Tennessee Williams (A Streetcar Named Desire)
Some places are just filled with a certain…something.
Something that creeps up under your skin and lights you up from the inside out.
Like New Orleans.
New
Orleans
Say the words out loud and it is almost impossible not to conjure up at least a half dozen different daydreams. Even on the quieter streets, there is a mysterious energy that permeates the air, and I have become convinced that the darkened corners are where mirthful shadows dwell, dancing wildly to the music of the city. I swear, there is a magical veil that gets pulled down the moment you arrive, and there you are, under its spell. It makes your heart race, slightly befuddles you, and leaves you even more curious than when you began. I’ve just started humming that bar from the Cole Porter song…(“Let me live ‘neath your spell you do that voodoo that you do so well…) See what I mean?
Imagine…
A plate of still warm beignets taunting you from under a small mountain of powdered sugar, hidden courtyards where pink champagne flows freely, dusk that casts rooftops in liquid gold, French 75s and sazeracs with Po Boy chasers, tendrils of wrought iron dripping down from second story balconies, crumbling cemeteries, jazz that floats on the sultry air at twilight. And then the ghosts. All that wonderfully mysterious energy seeping out from the walls and the cobblestones. Breathe deep and take it all in.
There are few places I have been that keep drawing me back like New Orleans does, and every visit reveals something new. From the labyrinth of streets that seem to shift under your very feet in the Vieux Carre, to the formidable splendor of the mansions of the garden district. The city has that weathered around the edges sort of grandeur that gives you permission to just be. No pretenses. It is the Big Easy, after all.
**We travel with a toddler, which is why this Wander Guide is noticeably devoid of some of the city’s notable cocktail bars and jazz clubs… but on a good note for parents with a small human in tow: all the places currently on my list have all been approved by a 3 year old for being kid friendly…
Touro/ Irish Channel
Shaya Every time we are in New Orleans we visit Shaya. Located down on the western portion of Magazine Street as you make your way from the Garden District toward Audbon Park, you will find this bustling restaurant serving up modern Israeli fare. Where does one begin when everything on the menu sounds absolutely delicious? Do you start with the lamb ragu and crispy chickpea topped hummus? Or maybe the one with fried chicken and a date salsa verde? It’s difficult to choose, and even more difficult to stop eating once you have started…especially with those beautifully warm rounds of pita continually appearing at your table straight from the in house wood-fire oven. (It’s no wonder that this spot has earned a James Beard award.)
Cavan Patinaed walls, pink velvet chairs, a copper topped bar, crystal chandeliers, small framed objet d’art… it shouldn’t come as a surprise that Cavan’s dining room is one of my favorite spaces in New Orleans for enjoying a glass (or 2) of late afternoon bubbly. Housed inside of an 1800’s mansion on Magazine Street, the elegant space serves up a casual menu making it a lovely spot for a little intermission.
Peaches Record Shop Treat yourself to a vinyl copy of Dr. John’s Gris Gris and thank me later
Garden District/ Lower Garden District
Magazine Street Walk, eat, shop, drink….repeat
Hi Volt Coffee Let’s face it. You are visiting New Orleans. You will require caffeine. Fuel up at Hi Volt and continue on your merry way.
Courtyard Brewery is located in a part of town where you might not find yourself otherwise, kind of under an overpass and in an area mostly populated with warehouses. On our first visit I was pretty sure we were totally lost…but then there it was: this funky little off-beat brewery complete with, you guessed it – a courtyard. Wander up the ramp and into a windowless room that smells a little like last night’s party and order up. Known for it’s innovative and creative brews, if you like to wander off the usual path to enjoy a tasty local beer this place is not to be missed. Totally unique and so very New Orleans.
Goorin Brother’s Hat Shop For some reason every time we visit New Orleans we leave with a new hat. Must be something in the air. (There is also a second shop located in the French Quarter)
District Doughnuts If you have ever hung out with me ‘in real life’ you will know that I have a wicked sweet tooth. This pretty much translates into me always seeking out where to get the best pastries, cookies, cupcakes, DOUGHNUTS, or ice cream treat wherever I happen to be traveling, The flavour combinations and girth of all the doughnuts I have happily scarfed down at this Magazine Street shop do not disappoint. Their version of a dough-nutty s’mores has definitely landed them near the top of my ‘secret international doughnut list’ that I may share with you all one day.
Lafayette Cemetery is located in the Garden District and was founded in 1833. I have tried to visit numerous times now, and it seems to be in a state of perpetual closure. The sign says closed for maintenance, with no information as to when it might re-open. Worth strolling by if you are on a little walk-about in the ‘hood.
Warehouse District
Bar Marilou Step off the sweltering streets for a moment of reprise, and follow a small path down the side of Maison de La Luz. You will find yourself in a lush room (once a law library) surrounded by deep red walls lined with bookcases, and black and white animal print carpet underfoot. Tuck into a dark corner of the room, sink into the soft banquet, and stay for a cocktail and snack.
Compere Lapin Located inside of the Old No. 77 Hotel is this hip restaurant, complete with exposed brick, a long blue bar and that urban-industrial chic warehouse feeling that lends itself well to either a casual lunch or an intimate dinner. Chef Nina Compton (Top Chef season 11) has conjured up a creative menu that intertwines flavors of the Carribean and New Orleans with French and Italian influences artfully woven in.
Josephine Estelle When you think about eating in New Orleans, Italian inspired fare might not immediately come to mind… but I am here to tell you that you should put those thoughts out of your head and walk yourself right over to this beautiful restaurant on the edge of the warehouse district from James Beard Award-nominated chefs, Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman. 17 foot ceilings, green velvet banquettes, and walls bedecked with painted palmetto leaves makes this one of the prettiest spaces around. A hot tip to keep in your back pocket: Josephine Estelle offers up one of the best happy hour menus in the city. Stop and fuel up on a delicious bowl of pasta before pressing on into the evening.
Maypop (temporarily closed due to coronavirus, keep up to date via thier instagram). Elevated Asian-fusion in a lofty industrial space. The menu is filled with highly creative flavour profiles, which do not disappoint. The spicy buttermilk fried chicken in a vindaloo curry with turmeric pickles, a fried egg and potato salad (featured on their lunch menu) is one of my favourite bites in the city to date. Maypop serves up happy hour, lunch, dinner and a weekend dim sum brunch.
Copper Vine Wine bar complete with a pretty little patio. Copper Vine is a relaxed spot where you can share a salad and a charcuterie plate while waiting for the heat of the day to pass so that you can continue exploring what else the city has to offer. (The margherita flatbread was also toddler approved. Great stop if you need to fuel up your little one)
French Quarter
Sylvain Wander down a narrow alleyway on the edge of the French Quarter and find yourself in the courtyard entrance to this little New Orleans gastropub. It’s that sort of mysterious beginning to things that you will only find in this city. Historic carriage house turned restaurant, the space is dark and intimate: grey walls, high-backed wooden chairs and pools of warm light set the stage for rustic yet elevated versions of classic dishes and Southern favorites. Open for lunch, dinner and brunch.
Cafe Du Monde Take a seat down by the Mississippi River any time, day or night. Sit down at one of the tiny tables and order up a cafe au Lait (or chicory coffee) and a plate of beignet, generously dusted with powdered sugar. Your order will be brought to you by someone wearing a white shirt, black bowtie and paper hat, and you will suddenly wonder if you have mysteriously stepped back in time. People watch for a spell as you dust the sugar from your lips, chin… lap. Think about ordering a second plate before stealing off into the streets of the French Quarter. (24/7, 7 days a week closed only on Christmas Day. Since 1862)
Jackson Square… to soak in a bit of New Orleans history, you must visit at least once. Other points of interest in the surrounding area: the St. Louis Cathedral, the Presbytere, the French Market (shops of the Colonnade)
Brennan’s I keep trying to sum up Brennan’s in a few tantalizing words. It was a spot that kind of blew my mind in a Shining meets New Orleans kind of way. Not the scary bits, but in an off kilter-old fashioned-ghostly grandeur- kind of way. Pink facade, hidden courtyard with turtle pond, player piano, green banquettes, painted murals and a mirror decorated with tropical birds…I could go on and on. I fell in love with this place immediately. Go for their “Bubbles at Brennan’s Happy Hour” (Thursday, 4 – 6 pm Friday & Saturday, 9 am – 6 pm Sunday, 9 am – 6 pm), have a snack, maybe even stay for dinner. This place opened in 1946 and should not be missed.
Longway Tavern If you aren’t looking for it, you could easily pass by this gem hidden deep in the French Quarter. In the early 20th century, this address was the home of two writers who would open their doors to friends in the wee hours and ply them with breakfast as they drunkenly wound their way home. Now it is a dimly lit little pub, complete with hidden courtyard where you can sip a perfect Sazerac and mull over which creative menu item from chef John Sinclair you want to try first. Once you enter, you will not want to leave. Trust me.
Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium (temporarily closed due to coronavirus). Creepy crawly things of every sort… Cockroaches! Ants! A small butterfly garden! Perfect spot to spend some time out of the sun with the small human you might be traveling with. Henry totally approved.
St Louis Cemetery No. 1 You can only gain access to New Orleans oldest and most famous cemetery by way of guided tour. But that’s not such a bad thing- think mini-history lesson for under $20 and it is so totally worth it. Air B and B has a plethora of guides for hire. I booked a tour with Muriel, and it was superb- her depth of knowledge regarding the history of the cemetery’s inhabitants as well as the burial practices was impressive. Voodoo priestess Marie Laveau is buried here, and it is also where Dennis Hopper freaked out on acid in the American film classic Easy Rider (if you haven’t seen it yet, you should!)
Stay
My favourite Air B and B in the Lower garden District
On my list for the next trip to the ‘Crescent City’. I got all crazy excited just typing this up, and am already trying to figure out just when I will get to visit again. Have a place to recommend that shouldn’t be missed? Please send a note…
Bywater
Warehouse District
French Quarter
Garden District/Irish Channel
Commander’s Palace Jazz Brunch
City Park
Tuoro
Uptown
Other
Jean Lafitte National Park, Barataria Preserve
You write so well. Thanks for taking me to New Orleans