The music was hypnotic. The haunting sounds of a double reed instrument (called a Pi Java) twisted its way through the shuffle of the crowd steadily assembling for the evening’s fights. Small cymbals chimed. There was the rhythmic thump of a drum. It was like snake charming music. The Katha Mahaniyou was working its magic…
I swayed- now serpentine-as we watched two young men, barely 18, enter the ring and begin the traditional boxing dance known as Wai-Khru Ram Muay. This ritual is performed before every Muay Thai match as a way to pay respect to the teachers, trainers, and to Buddha. Here we were, in front row seats at Ratchadamnoen, Bangkok’s oldest stadium, settling in for an exciting display of centuries old hand to hand combat technique. Capes came off. The beer vendor made his rounds. Popcorn was purchased. The music swelled as the boxers transitioned between their reverent arm rolls and flexes to the next phase of events.
The fighter’s foot tapped in time with the music. His head and shoulders shifted side to side as he sized up his opponent- determining when and where to strike the opening blow. The Pi Java began to wail. It was frenetic. The soundtrack reflected the action in the ring, becoming more intense as the opponents engaged. Droplets of sweat flew like spring rain. High kicks were released. Bodies tangled, and became deadlocked in corners only to be pried apart by the referee. It certainly was a “dance of the 8 limbs.” With every hit the audience cheered. A landed kick. HEY!!! A solid punch. HEY!!!
The crowd erupted. Suddenly, everyone was on their feet, arms outstretched, hands waving…First I saw somebody flashing two fingers…on the other side, somebody else was vehement: 3….3…3! (Had we been mysteriously transported onto the chaotic trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange?) Excitement was contagious, spreading like wildfire as the secret code swept across the stadium. All bets were off…or were the on? My new friend (an employee, who had been curling his muscles in my direction all evening) looked over at me and rubbed his fingers together, making the international gesture for money, attempting to provoke me into placing a bet. I considered flashing some numbers into the crowd, and for a moment or two the prospect seemed tempting. The whole building was mesmerized by the action, even the beer vendors had paused to watch, and no one- certainly not the bettors, were going to miss this fight.
The music accelerated as the timer ticked down, a sign that the final round was coming to an end. Another kick. Another punch. Another knotted grapple in attempts to take the win. Just as everything seemed to be reaching a crescendo: Ding! Ding! Ding! The bell rang.
The fighters retreated into their respective corners to momentarily catch their breath and compose themselves; meeting again in the middle. The referee raised the arm of the boy in blue.
For all the pomp and ceremony that had accompanied the fighters when they entered the ring, there was no formality or fanfare at the end of the fight. No speech, no victory dance, no reporters. As soon as they had cleared the ropes there were two more boys ready to prove their mettle. The cycle was ready to repeat itself…and it was time for another beer…
Ratchadamnoen Stadium address: 1, Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd
Click here for map to Ratchadamneon Stadium.
Matches take place Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 6-11pm.
Ticket prices are 1,000 baht / 1,500 baht / and 2,000 baht, and can be purchased at the stadium or from any local tourist office.
Your hotel concierge should be able to tell you where the closest office is located if you want to get your ticket purchasing done earlier in the day. If you opt for purchasing from a tourist office, they will only sell you the 2,000 baht ticket for ringside seats (which seemed to be completely reserved for tourists). We loved sitting front row for our first Muay Thai experience, but I do have to say that the 1,500 baht level looked pretty exciting- it was where all of the local betting action was taking place…The 1,000 baht ticket seating was up in the nosebleed section behind a fence (I wouldn’t recommend this choice)
Monday, Wednesday or Friday doesn’t fit into your itinerary? Never fear- you can also catch a match at Lumpinee Stadium! Fights take place here on Tuesdays and Fridays at 6pm, and Saturdays at 4pm and 9pm. Address: No.6 Ramintra Rd. Anusawaree, Bang Khen
Click here for a map to Lumpinee Stadium
Loved it! Great photos!! XO