Generally protected from the Korean War by the joint South Korea-U.S. manned perimeter, Busan is not only a city with an intact history, but a city by the ocean and one of the tourist destinations on the peninsula. Boasting beautiful beaches, rocky cliff walks, the Gwangan bridge, the world’s largest department store, and Jagalchi: Korea’s largest fish market (not to mention a couple of Buddhist temples on the outskirts of town), it is easy to understand why so many people flock to spend time here. Out of all of these features, Haeundae Beach is the most popular. We typically try to avoid such touristy spots, opting instead for “off the beaten path” locations, but this weekend we just couldn’t stay away- we headed straight for the beach- and the Busan International Film Festival.
The Busan International Film Festival (or BIFF, if you are looking at the signs around town…the acronym for the festival, not a reference to the “Back to the Future” character) is an annual event featuring selections of films from around the world, many with English subtitles.
We were headed for a morning screening of “The Sacred Arrow”- a Tibetan film full of beautiful vistas…and archery. Sounded like a lovely way to begin the day (and perhaps slightly more relaxing than the Japanese horror film I originally had my heart set on seeing.) Sadly, we got stuck in traffic on our way into town and missed our showtime. Time for Plan B: find parking, hit the subway, stroll the beach, eat something local and salvage the day!
After a few near death experiences, and almost getting our car stuck in the narrowest of alleyways, we found a tiny parking lot on a one way street not far from Seomyeon station- one of the main metro hubs. We bought 2 one-day passes (4,500won each – a great deal if you are planning lots of activities) and hopped a train traveling the green line to Haeundae Station. Signs for the beach greeted us as soon as we passed through the turnstyles. It is a short coffee shop and restaurant studded walk from the station to the ocean, and to our delight we found ourselves at the entrance to the International Film Festival “village” (the Busan Aquarium was right there, too).
Odd outcroppings of structures and kiosks lined the boardwalk, set up by the sponsors of the event: people waited in line to play the newest Playstation video game on a giant flatscreen, or to win a green felt fedora in a Jameson whiskey raffle. Even the New York Film Academy had a booth. I snapped a few pictures and we maneuvered our way through the throngs of people for a slightly less hectic stroll along the beach.
Summer was still hanging in the air. Children were chasing gulls across the sand and the day was clear enough to see the rocky outcropping of Oryukdo as Gwangan Bridge seemed to glitter a bit in the distance. Pausing to take in the view and fill our lungs with ocean air, we suddenly noticed that all around us people were snapping pictures using a selfie stick. Now, I am not talking about a handful of people with their smartphone mounted on the go-go-gadget-arm contraption…No- it seemed like pretty much everyone was posing for a shot- couples and singles alike.
There were even little foot markings in various spots along the boardwalk indicating where to stand to get the absolute best background for your selfie stick portrait. Very serious business. We tried not to stare and giggle at all of the posing that was going on around us.
Walking along past all of the tourist-style spots, and even a few carnival games, we came to the end of the boardwalk. It was almost like we had entered an alternate world. We kept the ocean on our right, and little by little the crowds dropped away, the streets narrowed, and the carefully crafted facade of the Haeundae Beach boardwalk gave way to little shops with fish filled aquariums, the odd cat or two looking for lunch, and random pop up tables and chairs where one could sit down for a bite of seafood du jour.
Nearby, boats were lined up in a tiny harbour. Two women squatted near a dock where the freshest of catches was being off loaded. They seemed to be preparing some sort of dish. A few tables with umbrellas almost blended into the fishing nets and traps and what appeared to be an assortment of garbage items.
People sat, waiting for a meal. We debated being completely adventurous, and taking a seat to join in with whatever was going on here. But, not being sashimi lovers, and being aware that raw fish was a popular dish in this port city, we decided to look for a spot that served the cooked variety.
Zig zagging through the stands, and past the blowfish soup restaurant (after a few minutes collecting sea glass on a rocky shell strewn outcropping), we happened upon a place on a hill which offered jogaegui (조개구이).
Sounded perfect! Fresh shellfish roasted ‘in shell’ right in front of us- Korean BBQ style. It did not disappoint. A large tray was brought out with assorted fruits of the sea. Scallops, two varieties of clams and something in a very large shell that turned out to be tender and delectable (and I am still unsure as to its proper name). We started out by placing a few of the shells over the fire. A few minutes later, one of the restaurant owners came by with a round tin filled with chopped onion, carrots, enoki mushrooms and nobs of butter. Using tongs, she picked up a couple of the clams that had been simmering in their own liquor, and using the standard meat cutting scissors that seem to be utilized at every gogigui restaurant, released the meat straight into the simmering puddle of butter. We ate like King Neptune as the sun lowered in the sky…shell by shell- first lightly roasting, and then dropping the delicacy into the ever-richening sauce. Yes. When in Busan eat some seafood!
Suddenly, we realized that the day had once again escaped us, even as my list of ‘things to do and see’ had barely been touched. Too bad- guess we will have to come back another day to walk the seaside cliffs of Taejongdae Park, visit gukbap alley, and take in a steam at Spa Land…gee whiz…sounds rough!
How to get there: Take the green line on the to the Haeundae stop, and exit 3 out of the station. Head straight for a few blocks until you see the ocean. To get to the restaurant where we enjoyed jogaegui, make a left after you see the aquarium and follow the boardwalk keeping the ocean to your right. 1457 Jung-dong.
WOW!! It sounds so grand and the pictures are glorious. I am hungry now and want to stroll the alleyways with you. The sight sounds and tastes all come alive while reading
I have a special place in my heart for Busan since I spent my first year and a half in Korea there. It’s a shame you missed your movie. Maybe you can make it to one next year. I went to BIFF my first year in Korea and we watched a Japanese movie about a man and his dog.
I don’t eat seafood, but you almost had me drooling with the way you described that shell BBQ. Looked fabulous!
If you make it back to Busan let me know. I’d love to meet up and show you some of my favorite spots.
That sounds like fun! I would love to meet up with you one day…
LARA, Your writing is exceptional…………I feel, as I am reading the descriptions, like I am walking in your shoes. You certainly have a great gift for the written word. I, like you two, do not like raw fish but as you mentioned about how the items were cooked and fixed, I began to feel my mouth water. Keep up the narrative and the picture-taking. I am enjoying it immensely.