Birthplace of Budaejjigae

Food always has a story to tell. Like magic, certain smells, flavours, and meals have the power to transport us through time and space. Whether it is a fleeting snapshot from personal memory that is evoked; or a larger, more encompassing tale that describes a culture, or colours a country and its people. Food is transcendent. It is more than just sustenance; it is history and community…Nourishment in every sense of the word.

Sometimes a food is born out of struggle. Such is the case with the well known Korean dish budaejjigae- literally “army base stew.” The origins of budaejjigae can be traced back to the Korean War. As people worked hard to rebuild their devastated communities, they were also facing the harsh realities of food shortages across the peninsula. For over a decade after the armistice between the Koreas began, South Korea remained one of the poorest countries in the world. In the face of scarcity, people worked hard to overcome adversity. The utilization of army surplus foods that could be found near American military bases in places like Uijeongbu, was one of the manifestations of the amazing ability to adapt. Spam, hot dogs, cheese slices, and baked beans became highly sought after- combined and simmered together to create a distinctly Korean meal (an early incarnation of Korean fusion cuisine?). For most, this was a first introduction to processed Western foods.

As time has pressed forward, South Korea has become one of the wealthiest nations in the world with one of the fastest growing economies (making food shortages a thing of the past). Yet, even in an era of abundace, budaejjigae remains highly popular: a reminder of dark days and a symbol of the impoverishment left behind. With all of these thoughts filling our minds we set out for Budaejjigae Street in Uijeongbu.

Officially formed in 1998, it is a an unorthodox commemoration of war…a bit of living history. The opening to the alley boasts a sign “Uijeongbu Budaejjigae” in a recent effort to rebrand the dish and alleviate the difficult memories of its humble beginnings. The altered name hasn’t stuck, a testament to the deep roots of its heritage. It is a small street, boasting maybe 10 restaurants- nearly all of them with the traditional low table seating and mats on the floor. Each one bustling almost to capacity with customers.

We chose a spot that had the brightly lit statement “Since 1972” on its facade. Immediately upon entering we were greeted by the broad smile of an older woman sitting behind the cash register. I surmised from all of the photos on the walls that she was the owner. After a short wait we were shown to a table where we proceeded to order “e-in-boon budaejjigae” with an add-in of ramyeon noodles. A lidded wok was brought over to us and the built-in table flame lit.

We munched on the accompanying banchan while the contents of the wok boiled away beside us. I lifted the lid to take a peek and was promptly told “no” by one of the employees who then quickly recovered the wok…guess we would have to be patient while the flavours fused and the noodles cooked. A few more minutes elapsed. The owner stopped by our table and gestured that it was now time to enjoy our budaejjigae. I was feeling eager to dig in and share in a bit of culinary history with those around me. Abundant steam rose from the wok carrying with it the scent of kimchi and gochujang.

Pieces of hot dog rose to the surface. It was quite the concoction. And surprisingly delicious! (Never having tried spam before, and a rare eater of hotdogs, I had been having doubts that anything created with such a combination of processed meat could ever be good…but I was proven completely wrong.) Simultaneously spicy and a bit salty- in a good way- we ate away. Bits of cabbage, spring onion, sweet potato noodles, slices of tofu, spam, chunks of hot dog, little nuggets of ground beef, strands of ramyeon…It was a strange kind of comfort food: both familiar and foreign. I became introspective as the budaejjigae continued to bubble away next to me on the chilly February night. I contemplated the power of the human spirit and its ability to triumph- even in the shadow of the most difficult hardships.

Budaejjigae for two is around 16,000won (8,000/per serving) with ramyeon added- an extra 1,000won

How to get there:

We were lucky enough to have a car for this trip. If you take Line 1 to Uijeongbu station and leave through exit 4 or 5 you can take the escalators down to the sub-terranian shopping center. If you can navigate your way through to the correct exit you will find yourself on a dedicated walking and shopping path. Follow the path to the intersection and take a left on the road. Jungang Station is a few blocks down the street. You’ll be looking for Hoguk-Ro.

If you take the train to Hoeryong station you SHOULD be able to get on the Uijeongbu train and get off at Jungang Station. We’ve never tried this route, so takers beware.

I recommend following the pin on the map for this trip.

Click here for map.

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