I think when most people conjure up images of Honolulu, the imagination seems to stop at visions of swimsuit clad tourists hanging out on Waikiki beach working on winter tans while trying to catch a wave on a longboard. Streets lined with all the big hotel brands, oodles of sunshine and a palm tree on every corner. Sure, there are at least two dozen spots where you can buy a Hawaiian shirt, or something that says ‘Aloha’ on it, and a quick walk through downtown will lead you to the latest Gucchi or Chanel offering, or even a Tesla. But I am here to tell you that if you take some time to scratch below the surface of the city (and for that matter, the island of Oahu as a whole) before jumping your flight over to Maui or the Big Island, you will be greatly rewarded. From tiny cement-floored eateries serving up huge bowls of saimin, to streets lined with murals created by international artists. There are the hikes through mud and lush greenery that make you feel like you have stepped back into the mesozic era and the yuzu or banana jam studded cocktails that follow. Izayaka in dead end alleys and authentic Korean BBQ will make you begin to wonder if you have somehow departed from a United States beach destination and traveled off to an interesting corner somewhere on the side streets of Asia.
Pau Hana Base Follow paper lanterns down an alleyway off the main drag in Waikiki to find this izayaka reminiscent of the yokochos in Tokyo. Take a seat at one of the wooden tables, and order up a Sapporo, some deep fried cream croquets, yakitori chicken, omurice, and ginger pork….When you finally stumble off into the night you will be surprised to find that you are still in Honolulu. Pau Hana Base is a true hidden gem.
Fete A little bit Brooklyn, a little bit Hawaii, Fete offers up that special sort of upscale- casual vibe that makes it a great regular hangout spot or a special date night destination. They currently offer an all -day menu where Italian style pastas meet with gochujang steak and Kaua’i prawns with coconut and curry leaves. The cocktail menu is one of our current favourites on the island and is inspired with flavours of yuzu, shiso and Hawaiian chilis, making it difficult to know where to begin (or end). They also have a really impressive list of bubbly… which makes a girl like me so very happy.
Duke’s Everyone should stop by Duke’s once while they are in Oahu. It is a rather overpriced for what is essentially a menu filled with your standard bar food, and it is most definitely touristy, but take a seat out on their lanai, watch the sun glisten off the tops of the gentle waves as they roll up on the sands of Waikiki Beach, and you will be transported back in time to Honolulu in the 60’s. Before you know it you will be in full vacation mode, ordering up that second glass of wine to go with your coconut crusted shrimp.
Palace Saimin Cement floors, fluorescent lighting, 5 laminate topped tables, and just 4 things on the menu. This place is a real deal unicorn. Those in the know will make the (short) pilgrimage to the outskirts of downtown Honolulu for one of their giant bowls of Saimin, the crazy delicious mash-up of Chinese style noodles in a Japanese style broth that is a true Hawaii original. Upgrade to a bowl of won ton min for a noodle-y, broth-y, dumpling-y delight topped with a small nest of char siu. Be forewarned: the servings are huge! Perfect for a post- hike- or -swim refueling.
Mud Hen Water Hip, industrial space with outdoor patio seating surrounded by large artist murals in the heart of Kaimuki. The menu is composed of plates that creatively twist the concept of Hawaiian comfort food, which draws from the diversity of cultures on the island. Stop in for brunch and try a Szechuan bloody mary along with an order of still-warm u’ala doughnuts glistening with coconut rum icing. Top off the morning with an order of homemade biscuits drenched in mapo tofu gravy with a sunny egg on top. Reservations recommended
Hideout Hop on an unmarked escalator for a short ride up off busy Kuhio Ave to Laylow Hotel’s trendy little treehouse of a coffee and cocktail deck. Sip a glass of prosecco and enjoy a selection of small bites while the sun sets over Waikiki. Try the crispy pork belly with brussels sprouts and local macadamia nuts, chicken satay, or the braised short rib tacos.. or go straight for dessert… no judgement here! We couldn’t resist the manoa chocolate bread pudding with chocolate gelato and ganache. Happy hour specials from 5-6pm. Kids menu available, too.
Holey Grail Doughnut Truck What started as a brother-sister team selling vegan taro doughnuts out of the back of a small trailer in Kauai, quickly grew into long lines, a cult following, and the addition of a bright yellow food truck and adjacent storefront in the Ala Moana neighborhood of Oahu. Using locally sourced ingredients, they create unique flavor combinations that change with the seasons. Tolentino Farm honey, Manoa chocolate, Kauai vanilla bean, and Hawaiian sea salt are just a handful of flavors you can expect to see on the menu…and you caught the part about them being vegan, right? Well, in my book, that practically makes them a health food. To top it off, the coffee is really amazing, too. I am currently in love with their cacao latte: Manoa Chocolate (produced right here in Oahu) and house made coconut-cashew milk. Go ahead…treat yourself to the tasting box. You won’t be sorry.
Shop
Kaka’ako Farmers Market Head over to the farmer’s market on Ala Moana Boulevard on a Saturday morning and revel in the abundance of local offerings. What better way to celebrate all that Oahu has to offer than by supporting local farmers, chefs, makers and bakers. Some of my favourite products include Onda Pasta’s handmade noodles and gnocchi (I am especially in love with the tagliatelle), all flavours of the Baker Dude’s croissants, Madre Chocolate cacao shell tea, Nalo Meli’s macadamia blossom honey, new comer Youpo Noodles serving up hand pulled noodles from Chef Andrew Pressler (of Pig and the Lady fame), local meats from Forage Hawaii (macadamia nut boar, veal, wild venison, pork, beef, and bone broths), and the stunningly beautiful hand made cheese and charcuterie boards created by Found Wood (imagine koa or monkeypod wood embedded with things like fossilized megaladon teeth, turquoise and lapis.)
Hungry Ear If there is a record store nearby, you know I have to stop to check it out. Consider picking up the single “Kon-tiki” by The Shadows to take home and play on your hi-fi while sipping a mai-tai in your favourite Hawaiian shirt
MORI by art+flea This small shop located at Ward Warehouse in the Ala Moana neighbourhood is filled to the brim with a carefully curated collection of art and handmade goods created by local artists. Aly Ishikuni and Nicole Franco have put together this brick and mortar shop, and are also responsible for the monthly recurring urban art market art + flea: an eclectic venue where creatives can gather and showcase their work. Stop in and shop for something unique to take home with you. You will find everything from t-shirts to ceramic chopstick holders.
Lonohana Chocolate Wander through the SALT complex in the Kaka’ako neighborhood and make your way over to the Lonohana tasting bar and shop. Browse and sample their gourmet , small-batch chocolate bars made from beans farmed right on the north shore of Oahu and hand crafted in a solar-powdered factory in Honolulu. Try the velvety smooth dark milk bar with cardamom spice
Hike
Koko Head A little bit of a tourist attraction? Yes. More of a ‘work out’ than a hike? Yes. Kind of crowded? Yes. So, gee whiz… why is this on my list of things that I think you should do? I have two words for you: sunrise hike. Yep. Seriously. Get yourself out of bed while it is still dark and make your way up the 1000+ steps of a very crooked train tressle to watch the sky turn from inky black to pink and gold and red and orange as the sun rises over a seemingly never ending expanse of blue ocean. It is one of those experiences that will leave a lingering memory for years to come.
**We travel with a toddler…so, for parents with a small human in tow: all the places currently on my list have all been approved by a 3 year old for being kid friendly…except for possibly the Koko Head hike: our little guy did it, but it was quite challenging and a little bit on the dangerous side. He loved it though…
Loved this so much. Can’t wait to try some of those spots, and the farmers market sounds wonderful!