Golden Buddha of Manbulsa

We were off to a bit of a late start on Saturday…Perhaps we didn’t really need that last pot of coffee before heading out to Impo to find the golden Buddha of Manbulsa Temple after all.

There was a small debate over how to get there: should we take the shorter train ride that connects with the local bus for a nice, relaxing cruise through the countryside, or

do we opt for the train and taxi combination? Since the day seemed to be ebbing by we chose the latter, and off to Daegu we went.

We arrived at Deagu station from Waegwan, and immediately bought our tickets to- and from Yeongcheon. (I will insert a little travel tip here and suggest buying round trip train tickets to your travel destinations in Korea- especially on weekends and during rush hour times. This will prevent your from having to stand in the aisles or the cramped compartment near the exit doors for the duration of your trip. We learned the hard way after a few rides feeling like sardines on our feet for 30-plus minutes …)

After a quick snack of skewered eomuk and a little cup of broth at the train station, we were barreling out of the city…Past small outcroppings of homes and rows of plastic covered plant nurseries glistening in the sun. I always get happily hypnotized watching landscapes pass by through the windows of a moving vehicle: a kind of peaceful excitement in the act of ‘going somewhere’…

Before I knew it we had arrived in Yeongcheon. A sleepy little place compared to the metropolitan hub-bub of Daegu. The plaza outside of the station was quite lovely. A large horseshoe shaped fountain stood off to the side, and when I looked down I was delighted to find that the stones that stretched out before me were embedded with bronze in the shapes of constellations: sagittarius, gemini, capricorn… All the signs of the zodiac were represented, surely a nod to the observatory atop Bohyeon Mountain (housing the third largest telescope in Korea).

Streets filled with storefronts branched out from the main square, and we were happy to see a line of taxis waiting for passengers. Quite a relief, since we weren’t sure what we would find upon arrival, and we had no clue where to catch the bus to Impo from here!

We hopped into the closest cab, and in about 10 minutes- after passing a huge sculpture of noodles hanging off a set of chopsticks- we were through the front gates of Manbulsa. I have to say, when we first arrived I was rather disappointed to see that a large portion of the temple grounds was undergoing major construction. We picked up a map at the information center (no English language pamphlets) and my heart sank a bit as we wandered past buildings engulfed in scaffolding, but we had come so far: we were determined to see what else we could find.

It was onward and upward toward the 33 meter tall Buddha, rising far above the foliage from its post on a nearby hill. The path’s flank was adorned by a long row of carved stone Buddhas seated on pedestals, intermingled amongst the trees. At first glance they looked identical, but upon pausing to admire, it became clear that each one was unique, enhancing their beauty.

With the sound of chanting monks filling the air, we couldn’t help but feel introspective as we kept on the path toward the giant Buddha. Up a hill lined with trees and golden statues, we took a moment to catch our breath and take in in the view of the valley below.

Buddha reaching Nirvana	Touch the soles three times and bow your head for your wishes to come true

We pressed on as the heat of the day reached its peak. Up a narrow foot path. Up worn and crooked wooden stairs…It felt like we were on a pilgrimage.

Our long and winding path

Then finally- the top. Against a perfect blue sky we stood and basked in the golden opulence: a beacon gleaming in the late summer sun. At the foot of the Buddha was laid out a cool expanse of green grass, numerous statues marking the parameters of the courtyard. You couldn’t help but feel radiant up there. Maybe it was just the sun, or maybe all of the gold reflecting…everything.

The reward for our passage

“We are what we think. All that we are arises with our thoughts. With our thoughts, we make our world.” -Buddha

Lantern and Bell Towers

Back at the base of the mountain, we made sure to spin the large golden rolls, hoping to rid ourselves of any bad karma…

I had read about how Manbulsa was different than other Buddhist Temples found around South Korea- being styled in a way that was more reminiscent of those found in Thailand. Even with all the construction going on, we could still appreciate the statues and structures on the grounds (the golden lantern tower is the only one of its kind on the peninsula)…Since we had a train to catch, we couldn’t explore the town of Yeongcheon like we would have liked, but there is a medicinal herb festival that takes place in October. Sounds like a good reason to come back for lunch…

How to get there from Daegu Station: Take train to Yeongcheon, a round trip ticket is less than 10,000₩ and the ride is about 30 minutes. You may need to switch trains at Dongdaegu. Once you reach Yeongcheon walk out of the station and you will see a cab stand across the courtyard. Our cab driver knew little-to-no English, but understood “Manbulsa Temple.” Be sure to get a call back number, you’ll need it as no cabs wait at the temple. The round trip cab fare was around 30,000₩, a bit of a splurge but well worth the time saved over taking the bus.

Slower, but still getting you there: head to the Dongbu inner city bus terminal, near Dongdaegu train station. (Be aware that buses do not have seat numbers and may be oversold). Purchase a ticket for Impo. The ride should be around 70 minutes, and cost under 5,000₩. Impo is a roadside stop after the Yongcheon terminal. From there you can walk or take a cab. There is only one cab driver in Impo, so be sure and get a phone number… if you can find him.

Click here for a map.

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