Postcards from Tokyo…

Tokyo:

It is a whirl, a twirl, a blur.

Facades of steel and glass make angles against the blue sky.  Mind boggling crowds of humans move like liquid across wide intersections, down shopping streets, and through perfectly manicured parks.  Kitchy pop music finds my ears as I stand on a corner.

Press a flashing button, get a steaming bowl of ramen, and listen to the salarymen slurp.

Under the massive red lantern of Kaminarimon. The gold topped pagoda caches the sun, as a girl in a gem coloured kimono shuffles by.  Incense fills the courtyard.  We are suddenly transported back in time.

A long dirt road passes under a graceful torii.  Hundreds of wishes, written on wood, dangle in the dappled light.  The curve of a roof, the shape of a tree: etched into my mind.

The evening lights up.  Neon!  Bells and balls and flashing lights.  We run through the cacophony of a pachinko parlour, laughing.

Steal away to the narrow streets.  Magic alleys.  Little doors.  (Golden Gai is peaceful at this hour…)  A zig.  A zag.  The smell of sweet soy and sizzling meat.  We nestle into a tiny spot. Skewers of kushiyaki hot off the grill: shishito peppers perfectly charred, mushrooms, and savoury balls of minced chicken arrive.  1 stick, 2 stick, 3 stick, 4… The food keeps coming.

Foggy windows, foggy heads.  We spill back into the Japanese night.

Where we went:

Meiji Jingu: Located in the Shibuya neighbourhood, Meiji JIngu is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken. Originally built in 1915 (completed in 1921), destroyed during WWII, and rebuilt in 1958. Click here for a map.

Takeshita Street: Jam packed shopping street where you might be able to find your own cosplay outfit. Click here for a map.

Yoyogi Park: The place to go on the weekends to admire Japanese street styles and cosplay outfits. Beautiful Park… Combine with a visit to Meiji Jingu and Takeshita Street. Click here for a map. (Easily reached from either Shibuya or Harajuku Station)

Shibuya Crossing: Rumored to be the world’s busiest intersection. Click here for a map. Located just steps away from Shibuya Station… (I recommend taking the train to this stop, then walking up to the Yoyogi Park area.)

Golden Gai: 6 tiny alleys filled with almost 200 equally tiny bars… Cool street art and mysterious signage give hints as to what might lay inside. Each bar caters to a slightly different clientele (indie rock, medical theme, a bar for French New Wave film afficionados…to name a few) We were in the ‘hood too early to try our hand at gaining entry to any of the bars- most of which have fewer than 10 tables, and who will only cater to regulars (or if you have been introduced by a regular). I have heard that there are a handful of bars in the area that are foreigner friendly: just look for menus or price lists in English hanging on the outside of the building. Note: there are cover charges! Bars open around 9 or 10p. Click here for a map. (A short walk from the east gate of Shinjuku Station)

Piss Alley: Omoide Yokocho (literally ‘Memory Lane’) is more commonly known by its nickname: Piss Alley. In the 1940’s it was a black market drinking neighbourhood, and earned its name due to a lack of toilet facilities… resulting in the local patrons having to relieve themselves… wherever. This narrow, ramshackle alley is filled with little eateries and is the perfect place to go for a couple beers and a few skewers of kushiyaki/yakitori. Note: there is a base charge for just coming in and sitting down to eat. Click here for a map and here for more detailed information (A short walk from Shinjuku Station)

Sensoji: Also known as Asakusa Kannon Temple, Sensoji is a Buddhist Temple completed in 645, making it the oldest in Tokyo. Destroyed during WWII, the temple was rebuilt, and has since become a symbol of rebirth and peace. Read more about the legend of Sensoji… Easily reached by a short walk from Asakusa Station (Ginza Line). Click here for a map

Imperial Palace: Located in the Chiyoda neighbourhood, the palace sits on the grounds where Edo Castle once stood, and is home to Japan’s Imperial Family. Built in 1888, but destroyed during WWII, the palace was rebuilt in the original style. The East Gardens are open to the public, and admission is free. Closed Mondays and Fridays. Click here for a map

Kabukiza Theater: Go get your Kabuki on! For single act tickets, you must purchase the day of at the theater’s box office located on the left side of the main entrance at ground level. Note: everybody who plans to attend must be physically in line- no buying extra tickets for those not present! There are matinee times and evening times. Ticket prices range from 1000-1500 yen. (I couldn’t feature any pictures, as photography was strictly prohibited). For more information, and a link for how to buy tickets click here. Approximately a 10 minute taxi ride from Tokyo station. Map

Where we stayed:

The Imperial Hotel… Perfectly located luxury! Steps away from the Imperial Palace, and a few minutes walk to the Ginza Station (on the Ginza Line- made it so easy to hop a train and make our way to Asakusa Station (Sensoji) and Shibuya Station (Meiji Jingu, Yoyogi Park, Shibuya Crossing, Takeshita Street) without having to figure out station transfers. Tokyo Station is also nearby.
Beautiful rooms, extremely helpful staff, and an assortment of on-premises restaurants and bars… Lovely, lovely, lovely…

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